Material info

Care instructions are related to materials and fabrics used in this collection.



I wanted to use linen because it is an ecological fibre. Also I like the rough look of it and I have longed for linen clothes to be sold in shops way more often. Now I make them myself.


Growing flax does not require irrigation or that much fertilizers or pesticides as cotton and it is grown mainly in Europe so it does not need to be imported such long distances. I use two kinds of linen in my collection at this time. Thicker one is Libeco’s linen made in Belgium of European flax. The linen has Masters of  Linen –certificate which means its producing took place in Europe from field to fabric, growing did not take irrigation or gene manipulation and the flax was made to fabric as naturally as possible. In addition flax is a carbon sink and linen fabric is 100% biodegradable (fabric only, not necessarily colors). Fabric I use is also Öko Tex –certificated which means there are no chemicals harmful to humans.


The thicker linen I use linen is middle weight (225g/m2) and stone washed and therefore lively on it’s surface and slightly wrinkly. Stone washing makes linen softer, but linen always gets softer after use and washing. Ironing sleeks it a little bit, but it is impossible to make it entirely sleek.


Thinner linen is Eastern European. It's thickness is 120g/m2 and it is gauzy and see-through. It has the Öko tex -sertificate.



Wash linen clothes in 40 degrees Celsius, but only when needed. Often just giving your garment some air does the trick and it is best not to wash a whole garment for a little spot of dirt. Just remove any stains when they are fresh. Wash gently and if your washing machine has an anti crease programme, use it. Do not squeeze the garment because that may leave wrinkles. Do not use spin-drying! If you are using dryer, pick the most gentle program and lowest temperature. I have no experience on how much a dryer can wrinkle linen, but on the other hand it should make it a little softer. Also using vinegar to rinse softens the fabric. Reshape the garment right after washing and lay to dry carefully when dripping water without any folds because linen wrinkles easily. Also the clothesline may cause ugly folds in your garment so I recommend drying on flat surface or on a hanger. Linen may be ironed with hottest temperature (3 dots or 200 degrees Celsius) unless told otherwise and you can use steam. Iron inside out because ironing may cause uneven shiny spots on linen when rubbed. I like using steamer over iron because that way it’s easier to avoid any shining or folds. Do not use bleaching washing detergents. Chemical wash with tetrachloroethylene (P) is permitted.


Always read the directions specific to your garment as blending different materials and parts used  may affect the final washing instruction. I will send an instruction with your order.


Wrinkle prevention

-store your garment neatly and straight in a roomy space (I mean do not stuff in a full wardrobe)

-do not wash unless needed, just air and remove stains fresh

-when washing stains watch out for wrinkles

-wash gently and use anti crease programme

-do not spin-dry or squeeze to dry

-reshape when wet and carefully lay to dry without excessive folds on a flat surface or on a hanger

-use steam

-you may try to fade some light wrinkles by spraying the garment moist or wet where the wrinkle is and then laying it straight




Jersey, college and rib I use made by Orneule in Finland from organic cotton. They are ecologically made using natural fertilizers and without pesticides or chemicals that make cotton plant to drop its leaves. They have Öko Tex –certificate which means there are no chemicals harmful to humans.


Some garments need support to strengthen their structure. I didn’t want to use iron-on interfacing because of the glue so I chose Dutch Bo Weevil’s 100% organic cotton canvas for this purpose. It is made in Turkey and has a Gots –certificate. I use it for example to strengthen the collar and waist of the skirt. Canvas is hidden inside the garment so you won’t see it.


Some products are made of sateen. I chose Harmony Art’s 100% organic cotton sateen which is also Gots certificated. Harmony Art is from USA and they produce all their fabrics in India.



Cotton jersey and college can be washed in 60 degrees Celsius, but to be more gentle to nature and to the garment I recommend using mainly lower temperature. Wash same colors together. I recommend using color catching cloth when washing garments with more than one color because black fabrics easily cause greyness in lighter colors. Also if you wash black clothes a lot they might have accumulated fabric dye in your machine over time which then dyes other clothes. I also recommend reducing washing and storing clothes roomy so they can get air between using. Do not use dryer when drying clothes in this collection. Reshape garments right after wash when moist so they would look neat. Do not use bleaching washing detergents. Cotton knits rarely need ironing, but if you think they do then use middle temperature (2 dots or 150 degrees Celsius). Chemical wash with tetrachloroethylene (P) or professional wet cleaning (W) is permitted.


Always read the directions specific to your garment as blending different materials and parts used  may affect the final washing instruction. I will send an instruction with your order.



Sewing thread

I use Coats’s recycled polyester thread. They are made in Estonia and are Öko Tex –certificated. They can handle washing in 60 degrees Celsius, a normal dryer, bleaching, hot ironing (3 dots or 200 degrees Celsius) and chemical wash with tetrachloroethylene (P). However, the fabrics may not tolerate same handling so basically washing instructions for clothes will be more gentle.




I use YKK’s zippers that are made in Asia. I use two kinds of zippers. Invisible and spiral zippers are made 100% recycled polyester and metallic zippers are brass and recycled polyester. The materials are post-consumer polyester waste (for example plastic bottles) that are then ground into dust and refined into new products such as spun to thread to make zipper tapes and other parts.



Remember to close zippers during wash. In worst case scenario the zipper puller or teeth might stick to the garment or other clothes and rip a hole or break the zipper. Zipper usually does not need ironing so do not heat it for no reason. It can take ironing with middle temperature, but too much heat can melt it. You can use another fabric to protect the zipper from heat.



Metallic parts

Eyelets, hooks and snap buttons are Prym's.
Rivets are ordered from -shop from Germany.
Aiglets and other medieval replicating parts
 are ordered from Vehi Mercatus -shop from Germany.




Cord is 100% linen cord from Finkonia.

Jute cord is 100% jute from LuovaStore.
Buttons are recycled so far, donated or bought from Pääkaupunkiseudun Kierrätyskeskus Oy (Helsinki Metropolitan Area Reuse Centre Ltd)

Recycled leather is from different sorts of recycled leather clothes.

Elastic ribbon is 60% organic cotton and 40% natural rubber and biodegradable. From Pure coverz (originally Charle).



Packing materials

For sending orders I use different materials depending on fabrics. Some products are sent in biodegradable mailing bags. They are made by The Moikka Project from Finland. Mailing bags are made of plant based materials: cornstarch and sugarcane. You can reuse them by using them as garbage bags for your food scraps and composting them! If you are interested you can read more info on Also it is durable enough to send your clothes back in case you need to cancel your order.


Especially linen made clothes are packed in a cardboard box so they wouldn’t get so wrinkly in shipping. Boxes are either white or undyed brown. I close them with paper tape so they would be entirely recyclable. To fill the boxes I found undyed brown tissue paper made of recycled material.

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